Buying used snow gear is one of the smartest moves you can make — whether you're a beginner who doesn't want to drop thousands on kit you might outgrow, or an experienced rider looking for a deal on a high-end setup. Here's how to buy smart.
Why buy used?
- Save 40–70% off retail prices, especially on last-season models
- Try premium gear that would be out of budget brand new
- Reduce waste — snow gear is built to last, and most boards and skis have years of life left in them
- Upgrade more often — buy and sell between seasons to ride different setups
What to look for in a used snowboard
Base condition
Flip the board over and inspect the base. Minor scratches and surface scuffs are normal and can be fixed with a basic wax and tune. What you want to avoid:
- Deep core shots (gouges that expose the wood core) — small ones can be filled with P-Tex, but large or numerous core shots weaken the board
- Excessive delamination — if the layers are separating at the edges or tip/tail, the board's structural integrity is compromised
- Warping — lay the board on a flat surface and check for twisting or uneven flex
Edges
Run your finger along the metal edges. They should be smooth and continuous. Watch out for:
- Cracked or separated edges — if the edge is pulling away from the base, it's a safety issue
- Heavy rust — light surface rust is cosmetic and can be cleaned off, but deep rust that's pitted the metal is a concern
- Burrs or nicks — minor and fixable with a file, but extensive damage may affect performance
Topsheet
Cosmetic damage to the topsheet (chips, scratches, sticker residue) is purely aesthetic and doesn't affect performance. Don't let a beat-up topsheet scare you away from a board that's structurally sound.
Flex
Hold the board by the tip and push down on the tail. The flex should feel even and smooth. If it feels dead, uneven, or has a "crunch" point, the core may be damaged.
What to look for in used skis
Everything above applies, plus:
- Check the bindings — make sure they're in good working order and the DIN settings are appropriate for your weight and ability. If the bindings are older than 10 years, most shops won't adjust them for liability reasons.
- Mounting holes — if the skis have been remounted (new holes for bindings), check that the old holes are properly filled and the new mount is solid. More than two mounts and the core starts to weaken.
What to look for in used boots
Boots are the most personal piece of snow gear, and fit matters more than anything else. When buying used:
- Check the liner — is it packed out (compressed flat)? Packed liners lose support and warmth. Most liners can be replaced, but factor in the cost.
- Inspect the sole — worn soles affect binding compatibility. If the toe or heel lugs are heavily worn, the boots may not sit securely in your bindings.
- Smell test — it's honest but important. Heavily used boots that haven't been dried properly can develop mould and odour that's hard to remove.
- Buckles and laces — make sure everything functions. Broken BOA dials or buckles can be replaced, but it's an extra cost.
Red flags to avoid
- Seller won't provide close-up photos — if they're hiding the condition, walk away
- "Only used a few times" with visible heavy wear — trust your eyes, not the description
- No brand or model info — makes it impossible to verify specs or look up reviews
- Prices that seem too good to be true — they usually are
How to get the best deal
- Buy end-of-season (March–May) — sellers are clearing out gear before summer and prices drop
- Look for last-season models — a 2025 board performs 99% as well as a 2026, at a fraction of the price
- Know the retail price — check what the item costs new so you can judge if the used price is fair
- Ask questions — how many days has it been ridden? Has it been tuned recently? Any repairs?
Buy with confidence on Boardom
On Boardom, every purchase includes buyer protection. Payments are held until you confirm the gear matches the listing description — so if something's not right, you're covered.
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