Ski poles are the most underrated piece of ski gear. They help with balance, turn timing, and getting across flat sections. They're also cheap and simple — but getting the right length and material matters. Here's how to choose.
Pole length
The standard rule: invert the pole and grip it just under the basket. Your forearm should be roughly horizontal when your elbow is at 90 degrees. If your elbow is too bent, the pole is too short. If your arm is straight, it's too long.
Height-based sizing: As a starting point, poles typically come up to somewhere between your armpit and the top of your shoulder when stood on the floor. Exact length depends on preference — some skiers like them shorter (easier in moguls and trees), some like them longer (more leverage on flats).
| Skier height | Typical pole length |
|---|---|
| 4'10"–5'2" (147–157 cm) | 100–110 cm |
| 5'2"–5'6" (157–168 cm) | 110–120 cm |
| 5'6"–5'10" (168–178 cm) | 120–125 cm |
| 5'10"–6'2" (178–188 cm) | 125–130 cm |
| 6'2"+ (188+ cm) | 130 cm+ |
Poles are often sold in 5 cm increments (115, 120, 125, etc.). If you're between sizes, go shorter for moguls and trees, longer for groomers and touring.
Materials
Aluminium: The standard. Durable, cheap, and they bend rather than snap — you can often straighten a bent pole in a pinch. Best value for most skiers.
Carbon / composite: Lighter and stiffer. Less durable — they can snap on impact. Preferred by racers and weight-conscious skiers. More expensive.
Aluminium with carbon sections: A middle ground. Lighter than full aluminium, more durable than full carbon.
For most people, aluminium is the sweet spot. They're tough, affordable, and you won't cry when you whack a rock. Save carbon for when you're optimising every gram.
Grip and strap
Straps: Most poles have a wrist strap. It should loop around your wrist so you can let go of the pole and retrieve it easily. Modern straps are often "quick-release" — they detach if you catch a pole in something, reducing the risk of injury.
Grips: Rubber or foam. Foam is lighter and absorbs sweat; rubber is more durable. Personal preference. Ergonomic grips can reduce hand fatigue on long days.
Basket size
The basket is the disc near the tip that stops the pole from sinking into the snow.
- Small baskets: For groomed runs. Less drag, less flotation.
- Large baskets: For powder and off-piste. Keep the pole from plunging deep into soft snow.
Most resort skiers use small or medium baskets. If you're skiing powder regularly, consider larger baskets or powder baskets you can swap in.
When do poles matter?
Essential for: Groomers, racing, moguls (for timing and balance), flat sections (poling across), and touring (for balance and propulsion on the up).
Less critical for: Deep powder (many skiers stash them or use shorter poles), park (some skiers prefer no poles for tricks), and very steep terrain where you're not poling much.
Optional: Some skiers — especially in the park or backcountry — ski without poles. It's a choice. But for most resort skiing, poles are part of the kit.
Buying used
Poles are cheap new, so used isn't always a huge saving. But if you're building a budget setup, used poles are fine. Check that the shafts aren't bent or cracked, the baskets are intact, and the grips are in good shape. Browse ski poles on Boardom — they're often listed with other gear or sold in pairs.