A helmet is non-negotiable. You will fall. A lot. Helmets are lightweight, warm, and can prevent serious injury. But not all helmets are created equal — fit, certifications, and features matter. Here's how to choose one that works for you.
Fit is everything
A helmet should sit snugly on your head without pressure points. It shouldn't shift when you move your head or shake it side to side. The chin strap should be comfortable but secure — you should be able to fit one finger between the strap and your chin.
Measure your head: Wrap a tape measure around your head, about an inch above your eyebrows. Use that measurement to find your size range. Sizing varies by brand — a medium in one brand might fit differently than a medium in another. Try before you buy when possible.
Consider your goggles: If you wear goggles, bring them (or try them) when fitting a helmet. The helmet should sit just above the goggle strap without creating a gap. Goggle compatibility is built into most helmet designs, but some helmets are shaped specifically for certain goggle brands.
Certifications
Look for a helmet rated for snow sports. The main standards are:
- CE EN 1077 — European standard for alpine skiing and snowboarding. Class A covers more of the head; Class B is lighter. Both are valid.
- ASTM F2040 — US standard for snow sports helmets. Widely recognised.
A helmet that meets either of these has been tested for impact protection. Avoid helmets without a snow sports certification — bike helmets and other helmets are designed for different impact profiles.
MIPS: what it is and when it matters
MIPS (Multi-directional Impact Protection System) is a slip liner inside the helmet that allows the shell to rotate slightly on impact. The idea: in a crash, your head often hits at an angle. A traditional helmet absorbs force straight on, but rotational forces can still cause brain injury. MIPS is designed to reduce that rotational energy.
Is it worth it? MIPS adds a small amount of cost and weight. Many riders consider it worthwhile for the extra protection, especially if you're skiing or riding at speed, in the park, or in trees. For casual resort skiing, a certified helmet without MIPS is still safe — but if you have the budget, MIPS is a sensible upgrade.
Venting
Helmets have vents to let heat escape. More vents = cooler and lighter, but less warm on cold days. Some helmets have adjustable vents you can open or close.
- Resort skiing: More vents are usually fine. You're moving, so you generate heat. Adjustable vents let you dial in comfort.
- Backcountry / touring: You might want fewer vents or the ability to close them — you'll be cold on the uphill and sweaty on the down.
- Park / freestyle: Lightweight, well-vented helmets are popular. You're working hard and want to stay cool.
In-mold vs hard shell
- In-mold: The foam is fused to a thin outer shell. Lighter, more common in modern helmets. Good for most resort use.
- Hard shell: A separate thick plastic shell over the foam. Heavier and more durable — often used in parks and for freestyle. Better for repeated impacts.
Buying used
Helmets are one of the few pieces of gear where buying used is risky. A helmet is designed to absorb one impact — after a crash, the foam may be compromised even if it looks fine. If you buy used, inspect it carefully for cracks, dents, or any sign of damage. When in doubt, buy new. A new helmet is cheap compared to a head injury.
That said, helmets that have never been crashed can be a good deal. If you're confident the helmet is undamaged — from a trusted seller, or a friend who upgraded — used can work. Browse helmets and goggles on Boardom and check condition carefully.